Lake Titicaca was my last stop in Bolivia. Before I visited, I thought, “It’s just going to be a big lake. How nice could it be?”

And then my bus approached the lake. And I had to eat my words.

I spent a couple of nights in the lakeside town of Copacabana and booked a room at La Cúpula. When I stepped into my sun-drenched room, I couldn’t believe it was just 210 BOB (about $30) a night. A bit of a splurge for a backpacker budget but a steal considering the digs. My room had two beds (excessive for a solo traveler, but hey, treat yo’self 2017), a spacious bathroom, enormous windows and skylights, a fireplace, and a view of the lake.

I swear this isn’t an ad for La Cúpula. I was just really excited about my sweet digs.

Hammocks were all over the grounds.

It was such a treat to be able to light a fire each night of my stay. As much as I love fires, I’d never actually made one myself, so I felt invincible when I finally got the fireplace roaring. (I might have wasted 20 matches, but shh, no one needs to know that.) I dragged a chair in front of the fireplace to watch the flames. So cheesy, but admit it: you’d do the same if you had a fireplace in your room.

After a couple of relaxed nights in Copacabana, I took a 1.5-hour boat ride to Isla del Sol. Hiking from the north to south (or vice versa) used to be a popular activity for travelers, and Inca ruins are scattered throughout the island. However, the north and south sides of the island have been engaged in a non-violent conflict for the past few months, and travelers have been barred from visiting the north. Accordingly, hiking was limited to the south side during my visit.

I arrived on Isla del Sol on Thanksgiving Day, so I celebrated by exploring the beautiful south.

Terraces lined the island. I passed only a handful of travelers during the whole day.

Looking toward the blocked-off north

During Thanksgiving dinner (pizza), I was treated to a breathtaking sunset. The cloud game around Titicaca is strong.

My room had a fantastic view of the lake, so I was able to watch sunrise the next morning without having to step outside.

Relaxing on Titicaca was the perfect way to end my stay in Bolivia. Although I was sad I couldn’t spend Thanksgiving with my family, the beautiful scenery on Isla del Sol made the day memorable.